Discover Crete before you come to Greece

here are four major towns or cities in Crete, which are roughly equidistant. Starting in the west, with Chania, it is 55km to the smaller, but equally charming city of Rethymnon. A further 78 km takes you to Heraklion, the capital and from there to Agios Nikolaos is 66km. The driving time from each one to the next is around an hour but remember that there are other smaller towns beyond the main towns, 70km to the east of Agios Nikolaos (Sitia)and 42 km west of Chania (KIssamos).

West Crete

Base yourself in Chania for the first night and enjoy the ambience of the old town. Chania is a large bustling city and many people are surprised that it resembles the tourism photos only in a very small area around the old harbour. A major consideration in planning your trip to Crete should be, that if you are in the west, there are just four roads running from the north coast to the south coast. If you plan to visit Elafonissi you cannot just cut along the coast to Paleochora. You will need to go at least halfway back to the north coast before you can cut across to the next road, joining it at Kandanos. It is possible to take a pretty "interesting" road from Paleochora to Sougia but probably best to take the main road out of Chania if you want to get there. The road to Samaria Gorge will take you to the head of the gorge but the only way out when you get to the coast is by ferry to Sfakia. This really is a case where it is better to use an organised trip via a local travel agent. In order to visit Sfakia (or Chora Sfakion) it is best to leave the National Road at Vrises and head for the spectacular drop down to the coast. Turn right at the bottom for Sfakia, or left for Frangokastello, with its spectacular castle.

Rethymnon

From Frangokastello, it is relatively simple to get to Rethymnon, which is worth spending a night in, if only for the fabulous restaurants and the atmosphere in the old town. In the morning, re-trace the route but follow the signs for Spili, with its famous fountain and waters, down to Agia Galini and on to Matala and the charming little villages of Pitsidia and Kalamaki. From here it is a short drive to the major Minoan site of Phaistos and the Roman archaeology at Gortyna. The bustling market town of Moires leads to the road to Heraklion, much of which is newly built, making it a simple drive to the island capital.

Heraklion

Imagine London, in the rush hour, on Christmas Eve, filled with irate taxi drivers. That is pretty much what you will find when you arrive in Heraklion, so don't say you were not warned. It is better to stay on the outskirts and get a cab into the town if you want to see the sights like the church of Agios Minas, the Morosini Fountain, the loggia, the (limited at the moment) Archaeological museum and the fascinating History museum. The fortress on the harbour is well worth a visit and you will be amazed at how big it is when you get inside. The next morning, visit Knossos, a few km outside the city. Get there early and you will avoid the coach parties that arrive later in the morning. From Knossos it is worth going up to Archanes for a coffee in the main square, (you will have to park the car and walk to it) This is the wine growing centre of the island. Several wineries in the area have tasting rooms and audio visual presentations which are well signposted. From Archanes take the road to Kastelli.

Agios Nikoalos and Lassithi

From Kastelli, take the road to Hersonissos for about 8km and then turn towards Avdou. Follow this road up to the Lassithi Plateau, the legendary birthplace of Zeus. When you drop down to the plateau itself, turn right and take the anti-clockwise route around the base of the prehistoric lake, now one of the most fertile areas in Crete. It is astounding to realise just how high up in the mountains you are. The cave of Zeus, the Dhiktean cave, is reached by a turning off the road and you can treat yourself to a donkey ride if you don't fancy the walk to the cave. The cave itself is very cold and can be quite slippery so make sure you are prepared. Amazing stalagmites and stalactites abound in the cave and it is easy to see why it was a place of worship to the earth goddess in earlier times. From the cave continue ant-clockwise via Agios Giorgos to Agios Konstantinos. Turn right, following the signs to Agios Nikolaos for a fabulous view over the plateau from a taverna at the top of the hill. Follow the road down through Potamos for a spectacular 30km drive down the side of the mountains.

Agios Nikolaos is an excellent place to stay for a night, with a great cafe bar culture and excellent tavernas and restaurants. It is no longer an "18-30" resort and suprises many people with its cosmopolitan atmosphere. From Agios Nikolaos, drive 9km north to Elounda, great for a morning coffee by the harbour. Drive on to Plaka and take the small boat to the Venetian fortress and former leper colony of Spinalonga. This is the quick way, but you can also get regular trips from the habour in Elounda or half day trips leaving at 12.30 from Agios Nikolaos. Go back to Agios Nikolaos and follow the signs to Sitia. Follow the road to Pachia Ammos and turn south to Ierapetra. It is worth following the signs a few km down the road on the left, to Monastiraki, just to try the kafeneion in the village, which is a real gem. The gorge, a huge cleft in the side of the mountains also makes for a great photograph.

Ierapetra itself has a small Venetian fort but is probably best bypassed in favour of a run along the Libyan Sea coast to Makrigialos, or a stop at any of the small coves such as Agia Fotia. From Makrigialos, you can cut north over the mountains to Sitia and then back along the north coast to Mochlos for an overnight stay and a lovely harbourside taverna. The airport, via the National Highway, is about one and a half hours away.

So there you go. Crete can be seen in a week but it is pretty hectic way of spending a holiday. Two weeks is a far better option and it gives you the opportunity to savour the true beauty and the majestic landscapes of the island of Crete.